Immortelle Absolute

Latin name :

Helichrysum italicum

Botanical profile :

Immortelle is a herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae family and the genus Helichrysum.

Geographic origin :

Immortelle is an endemic plant of the Mediterranean shoreline. It is possible to find it mainly on the cliffs and the scrubland of Corsica (France) or in Italy as well as, to a smaller extent, in Montenegro and in Greece.

Chemotypes :

Depending on its country of culture, immortelle absolute knows variations in its composition: an immortelle cultivated in Montenegro contains a high rate of Neryl Acetate, γ-Curcumene and smaller quantities of Neryl Propionate and aryl-curcumene. On the other hand, if it is cultivated in Greece, it will contain a high level of Geraniol and Geranyl Acetate. Also, an immortelle grown in Corsica contains a high rate of Neryl Propionate, β-diones ( ''italidiones '') with several sesquiterpenes. Finally, a Spanish origin induces a high level of Alpha-Pinene, to the detriment of other compounds.
In perfumery, 6 species are also used: Helichrysum angustifolium, Helichrysum gymnocephalum (female helichrysum), Helichrysum stoechas (also Mediterranean), Helichrysum bracteiferum (male helichrysum), Helichrysum faradifani and Helichrysum splendidum (splendid immortal). These species are included among the 500 cultivable species.

Extraction process :

Once harvested and dried in June and July, immortelle gives an essential oil - Immortelle EO (yield inferior to 1%) or a concrete and an absolute (Immortelle Absolute) in the case of an organic solvent treatment (yield of 1%, then 70% on the concrete).
The flower heads of the plant are cut with a sickle. The cut cannot be mechanized because this plant grows wild. The plants are extracted with hexane to obtain the concrete which is diluted in alcohol to precipitate the waxes after a glazing process at 32 °F. The absolute is obtained after filtration and evaporation of the alcohol.
Immortelle absolute is often subjected to a distillation to be bleached.

Major Components :

For a Corsican Oil :
Neryl acetate (≈ 45%)
D-Limonene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
Neryl propionate (≈ 5%)
Nerol (≈ 3%)
Alpha-pinene (≈2%)
Linalool (≈1%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (trace)

For a Balkan oil :
Alpha-pinene (≈25 - 30%)
Neryl acetate (≈ 20%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
D-Limonene (≈2 - 5%)
Linalool (≈3%)
Nerol (≈ 1%)
Neryl propionate (<1%)