Oak Moss Absolute
Naturelle
Undergrowth > Mossy > Smoky Woods > Animalic
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Evernia prunastri
Botanical profile :
Oak moss is the moss of a tree belonging to the Parmeliacae family and the genus Evernia.
Geographic origin :
Oak moss is grown mainly in Yugoslavia, Macedonia, Morocco and France, where it originates.
Chemotypes :
In perfumery, three types of lichen are used:
Evernia prunastri : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.
Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata, Evernia esorediosa and Evernia mesomorpha. These are not used in perfumery.
Evernia prunastri : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.
Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata, Evernia esorediosa and Evernia mesomorpha. These are not used in perfumery.
Extraction process :
The harvest is handmade in Yugoslavia for the most part. The mosses are piled in a truck specially used for the harvest and taken to the factory. The mosses are macerated in water at room temperature for one to three days, to moisten and soften the lichens, which are crushed afterwards. The extraction is done by three successive washes with a mixture of cyclohexane and isopropanol.
The concrete is obtained after removing the lichens and evaporating the extraction solvent. The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete with alcohol. The concrete waxes are precipitated by a glazing with a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F.
The absolute yield is between 1.5 and 4%.
Part of the colour can be removed from the absolute by treatment with activated carbon, or almost completely by molecular distillation.
The concrete is obtained after removing the lichens and evaporating the extraction solvent. The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete with alcohol. The concrete waxes are precipitated by a glazing with a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F.
The absolute yield is between 1.5 and 4%.
Part of the colour can be removed from the absolute by treatment with activated carbon, or almost completely by molecular distillation.
Major Components :
Evernic Acid (≈3%)
Usnic Acid
Formic Acid
Small quantity of Vanillin
Small quantity of Eucalyptol
Usnic Acid
Formic Acid
Small quantity of Vanillin
Small quantity of Eucalyptol
- Uses in perfumery :
- Useful in fougere and chypre notes (with Bergamot EO, Cistus EO, Cistus Labdanum Absolute Green Patchouli EO and possibly Lavender EO) for a rich and warm addition.
- Other comments :
- Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss. Lichens result from a symbiosis between a mushroom and an algae.
We also differentiate tree mosses and cedar mosses.
The use of oak moss tends to be replaced by Evernyl® or Oak Moss Olifak base, as this raw material is strongly regulated by the IFRA. - Volatility :
- Base
- Appearance :
- Brown paste
- Stability :
- Solubility issues in perfumes
Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases - Price Range :
- €€€€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
Because of its highly allergenic nature, oak moss is used very little in aromatherapy.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 90028-68-5
- FEMA number :
- 2795
- Allergens :
- Oak Moss Absolute is an allergenic ingredient alone
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is not restricted
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.
