Immortelle EO
Naturelle
Spicy > Warm Spices > Anisic > Almondy > Plastic
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Helichrysum italicum
Botanical profile :
Immortelle is a herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae family and the genus Helichrysum.
Geographic origin :
Immortelle is an endemic plant of the Mediterranean shoreline. It is possible to find it mainly on the cliffs and the scrubland of Corsica (France) or in Italy as well as, to a smaller extent, in Montenegro and in Greece.
Chemotypes :
Helichrysum gender, to which belongs Immortelle EO and Immortelle Absolute includes almost 500 cultivable species, mainly perennial and available all around the mediterranean area.
Major marketed species for perfumery are Helichrysum gymnocephalum, Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum stœchas.
Please note also that the geographical origin has a large influence on the EO composition. Indeed, the immortelle from Corsica is rich in Neryl acetate, in Nerol and in D-limonene. Inversely, immortelle from the Balkans has a high rate of Aplha-pinene and a low rate of Neryl acetate.
Major marketed species for perfumery are Helichrysum gymnocephalum, Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum stœchas.
Please note also that the geographical origin has a large influence on the EO composition. Indeed, the immortelle from Corsica is rich in Neryl acetate, in Nerol and in D-limonene. Inversely, immortelle from the Balkans has a high rate of Aplha-pinene and a low rate of Neryl acetate.
Extraction process :
Once harvested and dried in June and July, immortelle gives an essential oil - Immortelle EO (yield inferior to 1%) or a concrete and an absolute (Immortelle Absolute) if treated by an organic solvent (yield of 1%, then 70% on the concrete).
The flower heads of the plant are cut with a sickle. The cut cannot be mechanized because this plant grows wild. Plants are hydrodistilled while they are still very fresh (a part of the production is usually put to dry for a few weeks in order to produce the Immortelle Absolute). The distillation process lasts about 3-4 hours.
The flower heads of the plant are cut with a sickle. The cut cannot be mechanized because this plant grows wild. Plants are hydrodistilled while they are still very fresh (a part of the production is usually put to dry for a few weeks in order to produce the Immortelle Absolute). The distillation process lasts about 3-4 hours.
Major Components :
For a Corsican Oil :
Neryl acetate (≈ 45%)
D-Limonene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
Neryl propionate (≈ 5%)
Nerol (≈ 3%)
Alpha-pinene (≈2%)
Linalool (≈1%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (trace)
For a Balkan oil :
Alpha-pinene (≈25 - 30%)
Neryl acetate (≈ 20%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
D-Limonene (≈2 - 5%)
Linalool (≈3%)
Nerol (≈ 1%)
Neryl propionate (<1%)
Neryl acetate (≈ 45%)
D-Limonene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
Neryl propionate (≈ 5%)
Nerol (≈ 3%)
Alpha-pinene (≈2%)
Linalool (≈1%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (trace)
For a Balkan oil :
Alpha-pinene (≈25 - 30%)
Neryl acetate (≈ 20%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
D-Limonene (≈2 - 5%)
Linalool (≈3%)
Nerol (≈ 1%)
Neryl propionate (<1%)
- Uses in perfumery :
- Mainly used in chypres, floral, amber, leathery or woody notes. It allows to bring a very delicate tobacco and hay facets. Also works very well in peanuts agreements with, for example, the Osmanthus Absolute.
Nowaday, it is very trendy to use immortelle EO with green notes such as galbanum EO - Other comments :
- Immortelle is so called because of its very slight appearance variations throughout its growth, even when grown and dried. Its Latin name Helichrysum, comes from the Greek and means ''golden sun ''.
The characteristic smell of immortelle is due to the presence of small amounts of 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione and 2,4-dimethyl-heptane-3,5-dione.
Sometimes, immortelle is also called ''curry plant '' because of its colour. - Volatility :
- Base
- Appearance :
- Yellow liquid
- Stability :
- Gets easily coloured and olfactively degraded
Solubility issues in perfumes
The esters identified in this raw material can form their corresponding acid in stability tests. Neryl acecate contained here may form acetic acid. - Price Range :
- €€€€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
Data not available.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 289-918-2
- FEMA number :
- 2592
- Allergens :
- This ingredient does not contain any allergen.
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is not restricted
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.